Garbage disposal Tips and Repair
There are two types of garbage Disposals; they are the Batch Feed -
Activated by turning a stopper and the Continuous Feed - Activated by
a wall switch. Problems usually involve jams or clogs, or occasionally
leaks.
Safety Tip:
If dismantling the Disposal or working on electrical connections, shut
off power at the main disconnect. Never put your hand in the Disposal.
Use pliers or tongs to remove an object. Never pour a chemical drain
cleaner into a Disposal. Hot water and a little white vinegar will
help clear drain grease and rid the disposal of foul odors.
First, turn the unit off at the wall switch. Then look under the sink
and locate a small red button on the base of the unit. This is the
electrical reset. If the unit is no longer humming, it probably means
the overload has been tripped. Push this button in to reset the
thermal overload/reset.
Try to switch the unit on. If the unit now hums but will not run, turn
it off immediately. You have a jam in the disposal that needs to be
cleared.
Check under the sink for a small L-shaped service wrench that looks
like an Allen wrench with a bend on each end. It may be taped on the
side or in a small plastic pouch stapled to the side of the cabinet.
At the end of this tool is a hex wrench that fits into a hole you'll
find on the bottom of the disposal, in the center. Work the wrench
back and forth until the unit moves freely for several revolutions. As
you move the wrench, you are moving the shaft of the disposal.
If you can't find the service wrench in your sink cabinet, you can buy
one at any hardware store. Another way to free up the disposal is by
working from above with a socket on the end of a long extension. There
will be a hex nut on the shaft inside the disposal. No sockets set,
then take a broom handle and stick it in the disposal on an angle
against an impeller blade and work the blade back and forth until the
jam dislodges. Then press the reset button.
Now look into the disposal from above. Check for any foreign objects.
Remove them with tongs. Run water and start the unit.
Not Draining?
You should first try a plunger. Seat it firmly over the opening and
firmly push up and down a few times. Turn the switch on and see if the
clog is cleared, if not you will have to clear the trap.
The trap is the curved pipe under your sink. Loosen the slip nuts on
the trap with water pump pliers. Unscrew the nuts by hand and slide
them away from the connections. Once you have the trap in your hand,
carefully dump out its contents and clean it with a small wire brush.
We suggest that you put a bucket underneath it.
Cleaning Wood Decks
Chlorine kills algae, moss, and mildew. BUT - chlorine breaks down the
lignin holding the wood together, causing excessive damage to
otherwise healthy wood.
Chlorine is dangerous, environmentally unsound, and likely to
cause problems with surrounding greenery. If you must use
it we recommend using no more than 1 cup per gallon of water.
The addition of 1 cup of Tri Sodium Phosphate (excellent detergent)
aids in making the solution stay "wet" longer.
Oxalic acid, "wood bleach", is used to remove stains and lighten
darkened gray weathered wood. A solution (four ounces per gallon of
water) of oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water should be applied to
the discolored area. Stains will fade and disappear in twenty minutes
or less following this application.
New Pressure treated lumber: A treatment of Oxalic acid will open
up the mill glaze and allow you to seal or stain the wood.
Leaving any wood unprotected for a year only leads to a dirty gray
look, splitting and cracking. Use a deep penetrating
semi-transparent stain or a solid color stain reduced 50% with our
Shields All for the first coat then 2nd coat with the full bodied
stain. The first coat reduced with Shields All (new window) will
insure penetration deep into the wood providing a good mechanical
"tooth" for adhesion.
Caution: Oxalic acid is poisonous but not dangerous if precautions are
taken. Wear rubber gloves and be careful not to let the acid or
solution touch your skin or eyes. Wear old clothes. Try not to spill
any on plants. When you have finished, wash containers, clothes and
brushes thoroughly. .
Sodium percarbonate (Disodium Peroxydicarbonate) (not to be confused
with sodium bicarbonate)
Also know as "oxygen bleach", it is Biodegradable, Non-toxic,
Color-safe and Fabric-safe. It is not harsh like chlorine bleach. It's
mildly acidic and may be used to help neutralize previously-applied
basic cleaners.
Environmentally friendly, sodium percarbonate will react with water to
form hydrogen peroxide, which acts as both cleaner and slightly acidic
bleach/brightener. A great benefit is that the hydrogen peroxide will
evaporate and leave behind no pockets of acidic solids. The hydrogen
peroxide is unusually effective in lightening heavily darkened wood.
Except for industrial-strength cleaning or stripping jobs, sodium
percarbonate is our hands-down choice for most average wood
preparation jobs.
Oxygen bleach when used in conjunction with trisodium phosphate (TSP)
is an unbeatable cleaning/bleaching solution for your wood deck. TSP
is formulated to remove dirt, grease and grime and acts as a wetting
agent so that the Oxygen bleach can get down into the pores of the
wood. TSP can also be used for walls, woodwork and as a cleaning agent
for use prior to any repaint job. Mixed in a strong solution it will
remove grease and grime from driveway and garage floors.
CAUTION: The extreme pressure will break up the wood fibers leaving a
fuzzy wood finish of broken wood fiber. Not only does this shorten
the life of the wood, it also leaves you with poor surface to
refinish. Locking down the loose fibers requires more effort and
material. There is no need to use one of the giant 3000 psi machines
designed to remove multiple layers of paint from cement and stucco, a
1500 psi or smaller machine with a wide fan tip will do a nice job
without destroying everything in its path.